Which cut for which morphology?
Elegance is, above all, a matter of morphology and proportions. It is imperative to know these rules to choose the right suit.
You are tall
The principle is to ‘break’ your line by drawing the attention on the horizontal plane with the use of mismatched clothing or a beautiful belt. A generous lapel in the trouser will also have the effect of shortening the leg length. Likewise, favor all the elements that can widen the horizontal line is highly recommended for tall men: double-breasted suits, single-breasted suits with large notched or peak lapels, thick and heavy fabrics with a perfect drape, Prince of Wales patterns or checkered.
You are small
The principle is to ‘lengthen’ your vertical line, creating a continuous line while avoiding belts for example. Vertical stripes are the best friends are small men in coats, suits and shirts as they lengthen your line. Favor three-piece suits and every single element such as solid colors waistcoats and trousers. Avoid double-breasted suits with large notched or peak lapels because they will widen your line.
You are slightly overweight
The principle is to choose simplicity. Favor solid fabrics and colors with discrete patterns. Hide your belt. The aim is to follow all the rules that will lengthen your line: you can use straps, and pinstripe, but avoid peak lapels, double-breasted suits and too large patterns.